These pages try to present something different and original and the Joyce pub crawl is no exception. For those of you who haven't come across the idea of a pub crawl, it is a controlled (?) drinking spree with the simple intention of sampling a drink in as many hostelries as possible. A rough plan of campaign is useful and I have decided to base this crawl around pubs that existed in the time of James Joyce and therefore featured in his writings.
My tour starts in the Gresham Hotel on O'Connell Street, still the pride of Dublin. You'll appreciate the ambiance and opulence of this establishment and, more to the point, you'll be presumably sober and likely to get past the doorman. They do a very nice tea and scones - not particularly cheap - but then you're in one of Dublin's longest-established hotels.
Having sampled the porter, turn left towards the river and turn left again when you reach Middle Abbey Street. A short distance down on the right hand side of the street is Wynn's Hotel with a more modest and homely appointment. This hotel has changed little over the years.
Having drunk every drop, head to O'Connell bridge and turn left having crossed the Liffey onto Burgh Quay. Take the first turn right to Hawkins Street where you'll see plenty of buses and turn left again onto Poolbeg Street. Towards the end of the street you'll see Mulligan's, a genuine working man's Dublin pub and reasonably authentic since the time of Joyce &co.
Now take the road south (where's south you ask!) passing Trinity College and walk up Grafton Street. Take the first turn left into Duke Street at the side of Brown Thomas. Just a short distance on the right will take you to the famous Davy Byrne's. You'll do well on a weekend to get a drink here as it's usually jammed, but this pub was visited by Leopold Bloom in his famous walk around Dublin in Ulysses.
Retrace your steps to Grafton Street and head back towards TCD but turn left onto Wicklow Street. You'll find the International bar at the next crossroads which is probably the pub described by Joyce in Dubliners. It was then owned by a Mr O'Donohue. More to come...
top of page
James Joyce pub crawl